If the doughty figure of Captain Cook were to spin on his pedestal and peer through the window of the imposing two-storey sandstone building behind, he’d see happy diners in a charmingly understated room.

The good captain would surely admire the banquettes, the sturdy wooden chairs and the diligent service, and salute Matthew Kemp’s English influence on the French-inspired menu. The kitchen coaxes clarity and intensity of flavour from daringly juxtaposed, and often humble, ingredients.

All work gloriously well. A dollop of salt cod mousse primes succulent, seductive aged serrano ham; a tumble of shaved cuttlefish and chorizo graces a block of pork belly; a slew of curried vongole cushions a lovely piece of bream.

In anticipation of the next sea-sonal and produce-driven menus, we’ll forgive the closeness of the tables and a bombe Alaska that, one night, coldly resisted cutlery. Have faith that Kemp’s contemporary sensibility and clas-sic techniques promise seriously good eating.