Helen Greenwood reviews different directions for men's fragrances.

Tom of Finland

Etat Libre D'Orange

Perfumer Antoine Lie (Givaudan)

Family Woody oriental

Key notes Lemon, aldehydes, geranium, pine, galbanum, pepper, saffron, tonka bean, vanilla$160 for 50mL

Rating: 5/5

Give a talented perfumer carte blanche and you'll end up with a gem. That's what Etienne de Swardt does with his Etat Libre D'Orange range, using films, cult novels, comics and art for inspiration.

Here, he's taken the homoerotic, homosexual master draftsman, Tom of Finland, as the starting point. Perfumer Antoine Lie (who is straight) has dreamt up a fragrance that celebrates masculinity as smelling as complex as sex, clean as a glacier, rich as saffron, sweaty in a good way, soft, taut and is utterly wearable by any body (literally, men or women).

From the radiant, vodka-on-the rocks opening through the pine forest of Finland resin to warm leather, this is a restless fragrance. Its roots are classic but its modernity shows its constant shifting in different directions - always with a twinkle and a come-hither wink.

We also love the bottle, with its cheeky reference to a certain vodka brand and the velvety black cap.

Prada Infusion d'Homme

Prada

Perfumer Daniela Andrier (Givaudan)

Family Floral

Key notes Mandarin, orange blossom, galbanum, iris, incense, benzoin, cedar, vetiver $95 for 50mL

Rating: 4/5

So clever. So wearable. So unisex. So on the money for trends for men.

Daniela Andrier, who also made Prada's female version, balances floral and resin in a restrained, elegant fashion.

In food terms, it's like the famous tomato consomme at Sydney's Tetsuya's restaurant: sheer, clear and intensely faithful to its raw materials.

Andrier's essence of iris and resin is a radical departure from usual abrasive, astringent, typical macho smells for men.

Instead, she delivers an intimate scent that re-creates fresh clean skin just out of the shower, albeit with an aromatic aura.

It is pearly translucent and, as it happens, smells good on women, too.

Hilfiger by Tommy Hilfiger

Estee Lauder Group

Perfumer Olivier Gillotin (Givaudan)

Family Aromatic

Key notes Bergamot, mandarin, pepperwood, jasmine, tea rose, patchouli, labdanum, tonka bean, papaya $89 for 50mL

Rating: 3/5

Aromatic is the classic category of men's scents. So it's intriguing to see what, if anything, a masstige fragrance does with the traditional formula of zesty, spicy and woody.

The answer is: do the same, pleasantly and youthfully.

Hilfiger has the usual brisk, citrus opening but it's tempered with a flirtation with fruitiness. It has some spiciness but with floral touches. It has underlying warmth with herbal hints and even a little sexy sweat. Best of all, it is well made.

Along the way, this unattractive purple juice in the cliched bottle makes me think of tender young men and sporty types who are good sports.

This is not a flamboyant fast bowler of a fragrance - it is too polite for that - just a good all-rounder that quietly delivers a balanced performance.